News of troubles in Peru came today, and demonstrations have started so the new President has issued a State of Emergency, shutting down internal flights etc. I am to meet with my youngest daughter at Machu Pichu or there abouts in just 18 days – and now we do not now if it is safe for her and for me to travel to Peru. The Danish foreign minister has issued a warning for Danes in Peru, so we are following the situation closely.
The two days was mostly long transport stretches as I needed to get up north for the Peru rendezvous – so well over 500km both days covering the distance from Ovalle to Antofagasta. Most of this trip – well, at least 700km is through parts of the very large Atacama Dessert.
The first day started though with what I love the most – 50km of twisting narrow dirt-roads crossing over 2.200m with so many white peaking observatories around the Estrellas area. Road conditions are super dry, so a lot of dust, and all the twisties where like padling in potato flour – very slippery so the adrenalin was indeed active.
I headed for the Oceanico Pacifico again for lower temperatures and had about 100km in very pleasent conditions – then turning into Ruta del Desierto for the next 280km – and indeed it was long and not changing much.
The night was spent in Caldera – small coastal city – in a very crappy hostel. It is not easy to find one with safe parking for the bike that also has checkmarks on my other requirements. Bookings have now been made for the next 4-5 nights after spending some hours researching and looking for recommendations.
The route to Antofagasta via Ruta 5, Panamericana Norte, was continued in the desert so a lot of water was brought along and I also did a good check for gas-stations along the 500+ km route. During the drive I passed a lot of white capped rocks at the ocean shoreline – and yes you guessed right – guano and it did smell awful.
Only two points of interest along the route was planned. First point was to find the result of an old project I participated in back in 1994 – the European Space Organization Very Large Telescopes in Cerro Paranal at 2.600 masl. And I did find it – though I was only able to visit the gatekeeper at 2.400 masl and have lunch and enjoy the view. My task back in the days was to evaluate the aerodynamics of the telescope structures as they actually cut of the top of the mountain to place the observatory.
Second point of interest was a culture piece that many visitors knows about, but very few locals. The Manno del Desierto – an artpiece in the middle of nowhere about 70km south of Antofagasta. Well, now I’ve been there too 😎
Stay safe.
Very nice write-up. So cool you went back to your old projekt.